ArtResin has been evaluated by a certified toxicologist at the American Society for Testing and Materials as being non-toxic when used as directed (conforms to ASTM D4236). It is formulated using the highest quality materials and therefore produces no VOCs or fumes. It is a clean system, meaning there are no solvents or non-reactive diluents—everything in it reacts so nothing is free to become airborne and cause health issues. It is also non-flammable in its liquid form. For all these reasons, it is therefore classified as a non-hazardous material and is shippable by air. Furthermore, many curatives have a powerful odor, however ArtResin has only a low odor and is applicator friendly.
ArtResin is derived from museum conservation-grade materials to ensure its water-clear clarity is preserved for decades. Many resins contain a UV stabilizer to help delay the epoxy's natural yellowing process, however this alone is not enough to prevent yellowing from happening. ArtResin contains both a UV stabilizer as well as an advanced additive called HALS (hindered amine light stabilizer) that interrupts the yellowing process before it can begin. The result is that it stays clear both in the bottle and once cured.
Epoxy resins are prone to yellowing and other degradative effects from UV light, so stabilization additives are used to help mediate the damage. A UV stabilizer works to protect against gloss loss, cracking, chalking and de-lamination, and to some extent yellowing. A UV stabilizer merely delays yellowing in resins, so ArtResin has a HALS (hindered amine light stabilizer) added for extremely efficient long term yellowing protection.
Yes, once ArtResin is cured, it is fully inert and can be safely used as a food contact surface.
ArtResin has been vigorously tested by a third party for leaching and migration across worldwide standards and passed every test: when used as directed, cured ArtResin will not leach any substances into food that comes into contact with it.
You can check out ArtResin's SDS for further details.
Yes, you can do a second coat of ArtResin. You may choose to do this to repair the first coat, for example if there is a bubble, hair, dust or other small imperfection in your cured resin. To apply a second layer, you will prepare and apply the resin exactly the same way as the first; however you must sand out the imperfection first, and then give the entire piece an overall sanding to provide some tooth so the second layer can adhere properly. Sanding will cause the first layer to look scuffed but don't worry; when you pour the second coat on, the scuff marks will become invisible.
You can also pour multiple layers of ArtResin if, for instance, you need to cover areas of high relief, if you're pouring into a mold or if you simply like the look of a thicker coat. It's important to remember that the ideal pour is 1/8" - if you pour any thicker, the bubbles will not be able to escape. You can layer ArtResin in multiple coats, as high as you'd like, as long as you pour in 1/8" increments.
You have two choices when pouring multiple layers: the first is to pour your first layer, torch out the bubbles, cover and wait 3-5 hours until your resin reaches a jelly like stage. At this point, you can pour on your next 1/8" layer, torch out bubbles, cover, wait 3-5 hrs and repeat until you reach the height you desire. This method is especially handy when pouring into a mold or a dam. The second option is to allow your first layer to fully dry, then give the overall piece a light sanding and pour on your next 1/8" layer. Torch out bubbles, cover and let this layer dry. Repeat these steps as many times as you'd like.
Keep in mind that our recommendation of a 72hr cure time is based on a 1/8" layer. The thicker your layers are, the longer the cure time will be. It could take up to 10 days for a full cure, depending on how many layers you've poured.
ArtResin is considered a non-hazardous material and is non-toxic when used as directed, however there are some common sense safety precautions that every user should follow:
Wear gloves. Epoxy resin is very sticky in its liquid form, so gloves will protect the user from a mess, as well as skin irritation. Clean skin promptly with soap and water if it does come in contact with the product.
If the product somehow comes in contact with your eyes, flush with water repeatedly and do not rub. Promptly seek medical attention.
Work in a well ventilated area. Wear a respirator if ventilation is poor.
For detailed health information, please see the ArtResin SDS.
ArtResin conforms to ASTM D-4236, meaning it has been evaluated as safe for home use.
Torches ( e.g. a butane-filled ArtResin™ Artist's Torch or an ArtResin™ Artist's Propane Torch Head ) work extremely well to eliminate bubbles because they produce a flame which can easily be controlled and directed at an area of bubbles. When the resin is heated, it thins out which enables it to de-gas more easily. Heat guns can also work, however they are harder to direct heat to where you want it to go. An added benefit of the flame is that it will burn off tiny dust particles that may have landed in the resin. Of course, common sense and caution should be used when operating any torch or heat gun.
Yes, ArtResin can be tinted with ResinTint™ pigment, as well as acrylic paint or ink. Simply drop color into the mixture while stirring for an all over saturated color. All 24 ResinTint™ colorants are crafted for compatibility with ArtResin epoxy resin: this colorant will preserve the glossiness and translucency of the resin and will not cause a flammability risk when torched. Acrylic paint will produce a more opaque look and often greatly decreases the working time. Inks such as alcohol ink can pose a significant flammability risk when torched.
TIP: Whichever colorant you choose, be sure not to add more than 6% of the total volume of mixed resin and hardener. Adding more than 6% colorant may interfere with the delicate balance necessary for the epoxy resin's chemical reaction to take place, thereby preventing your ArtResin from curing properly.
The maximum temperature that cured ArtResin can tolerate is 120F or 50C.
At temperatures as high as that, the cured pieces may become a little flexible but once they cool off, they will harden up once again. Typically, the heat generated from a hot mug will not damage the resin surface on a coaster, but if your cured resin is exposed to temperatures beyond 120F or 50C, however - for example, you place a hot dish right out of the oven on a resined surface or you leave a cured piece in a hot car - it could cause irreperable damage.
ArtResin epoxy resin will bond well to every medium, with the exception of wax paper and plastics including silicone (i.e. materials that repel water). It works extremely well on wood, photographs, inkjet prints, acrylic, oil paint that has completely dried, watercolour, spray paint, encaustic, ink, paper collage, oil pastel, sculpture, flowers, rocks, and other found objects. You may want to avoid pouring it over loose materials (this may include chalk pastels); anything that is not completely adhered to the surface of your work could potentially mix into the resin in its liquid form once it's poured and float around. Some lower quality papers absorb resin rather than allowing it to sit on top, in which case a sealant should be used over the paper first to avoid seepage. The best thing to do is experiment and have fun!
Yes, you can use ArtResin epoxy resin over oil paint once it has dried thoroughly. It will fully bond to and seal in any dry oil painting.
Yes, you can resin over acrylics. ArtResin epoxy resin will not act as a solvent on acrylic so long as the surface you are resining is dry. If you are curious or hesitant as to what the outcome will be, simply conduct a test on a practice surface first.
Yes, you can use ArtResin epoxy resin over watercolor. Usually watercolor paper is very thick and high quality in order to be able to stand up to water which makes it the perfect paper to apply resin to. Some papers can absorb resin, but watercolor paper typically does not.
Yes, ArtResin epoxy resin can be applied over dry spray paint.
Yes, you can use ArtResin epoxy resin over inkjet prints. There are many different kinds and brands of ink and paper, all of which will behave slightly differently. Glossy printed paper tends to work better than matte paper in allowing the resin to sit on top of the print without absorbing in. Glossy prints done at your local print shop will typically work great with ArtResin epoxy resin.
Yes, you can use ArtResin epoxy resin over photographs for a finished, frameless modern look. Printing on glossy paper typically yields the best result.
Yes. ArtResin epoxy resin will seal in all kinds of papers, including photo paper, tracing paper, linen paper, origami paper, Yupo paper, etc. Resin isn’t like water—if you pour it on paper, it doesn’t necessarily soak into it provided you are using good quality paper. If you apply wet resin on dry paper, you will be able to touch the other side of the paper and it will be dry. Low to medium quality papers can absorb the resin making colors appear darker, however this can be corrected by first applying a sealant such as Mod Podge before using ArtResin epoxy resin. Glossy paper works best for photos. If you are curious or hesitant as to what the outcome will be, simply conduct a test on a small piece of scrap paper first.
Yes, you can easily use ArtResin epoxy resin over a puzzle. Cut a piece of MDF board to the exact dimensions of your puzzle and adhere your puzzle to the board with white glue. It's always best practice to pre-treat your puzzle with a sealant first, as the resin may soak into the paper and make it look darker, especially around the perimeter of each puzzle piece. Measure, mix and apply the ArtResin epoxy resin. Often puzzles require 2 coats because air is released from between the pieces in the puzzle which tends to create pitting in the first layer. A second layer will take care of any surface imperfections. Always remember to sand in between layers to encourage proper adhesion.
Yes, ArtResin epoxy resin looks great over wood! It brings out the wood's natural colors and grain, protecting it for the longterm. Always ensure your wood is thoroughly dried before applying ArtResin and it's a good idea to seal it prior to resining to avoid off-gassing air bubbles.
Yes, you can resin over water-based or permanent marker once dry, however in most cases you will need to use a sealant such as Leveling Gel over the marker first to prevent bleeding and/or discoloration. Always test first before you pour ArtResin over your masterpiece.
Yes, but be aware that chalk pastel is made up of loose particles that could mix with the resin. If you are applying a large quantity of resin, you may be able to tilt the surface (e.g. your canvas or board) in order to spread the resin around—much like batter in a cake pan—(instead of using a spreader) to help prevent unwanted mixing.
Yes, you can apply ArtResin epoxy resin to sculpture and 3D objects by painting it on in thin coats with a disposable foam brush or applying with gloved hands.
Yes, however ArtResin epoxy resin is best for certain types of jewelry making where the resin is poured into/onto a support (e.g. pendants). It may not be appropriate for pieces that are meant to be worn without a substrate (e.g. a bangle). Try experimenting with colored pigments and dyes, pouring it into silicone molds and into bezels. Add attachments like hooks, pins, beads and gems either as the resin is curing, or afterward using a strong adhesive.
Yes, you can apply ArtResin epoxy resin as an adhesive for glass tiles and mosaics (i.e. like clear grout), and you can also pour it overtop of shard glass to make sure sharp edges are not exposed.
Yes, ArtResin epoxy resin can be used over organic material such as butterfly wings, rocks and leaves. The resin will seal it in, protecting it from the air and preserving its natural brilliant color. Be aware that resin can make some items look as they would when wet - test first so you know exactly what to expect. Make sure natural items are thoroughly dried or they may rot under the resin. Some natural objects can off-gas trapped air into the resin in the form of bubbles - you may want to seal first as a precaution. Choose items that are fairly flat so the resin is sure to cover them completely, or you may need to pour multiple coats to cover areas of high relief. Use caution when pouring and spreading over delicate areas of your artwork and be aware that the resin is thick and can be heavy if a large amount is used. Because of this, you may wish to apply the resin in thin coats.
Yes. Depending on how high the texture is, you may need to apply multiple coats if you want a perfectly flat resin surface on top. To apply multiple layers of resin, allow the first coat to thicken to a gel-like state (usually takes 3-5 hours), then pour a second coat overtop to cover any areas that are sticking up. Repeat as often as necessary, torching after each pour.
Yes, ArtResin will make the fabric stiff and rock hard after it cures. Be advised that the resin will make the fabric look wet and may even make it look darker or alter its colour. Try testing with water on the fabric first to give you an idea of what it will look like once resined. You can use ArtResin on any fabric, but we always advise testing first so you know exactly what results to expect.
Yes, ArtResin epoxy can be used over polymer clay to seal, strengthen and give your sculptural piece a beautiful glossy look. Apply a thin coat with a disposable foam brush, gloved hands or small objects may be dipped into a cup of ArtResin.
ArtResin epoxy resin works very well as a coaster protectant; the heat generated from the bottom of a hot mug will not damage the resin surface. However, hotter temperatures such as that produced from a frying pan or casserole dish straight from the oven are typically too hot and could cause irreparable damage to the resin surface so we do not recommend using ArtResin epoxy resin for hot plates. It is recommended for use up to 120F/50C.
Yes, ArtResin epoxy resin will bond to ceramic material. For ceramic tile, simply pour on and spread as usual. For ceramic sculpture, apply with a disposable foam brush in thin coats. For ceramic plateware, simply wait until the ArtResin epoxy resin has fully cured before serving food on it.
Yes, once cured, ArtResin epoxy resin is entirely inert meaning it will not leach anything in or out. Keep in mind that ArtResin cannot be exposed to temperatures higher than 120F/50C.
Yes, you can use ArtResin epoxy resin on food without it rotting, so long as you cover every square inch of the item to protect it from the air. Once resined, your food will look as fresh as the day it was resined (though it should not be eaten, obviously).
ArtResin epoxy resin can be used to coat kitchen countertops, but keep in mind that ArtResin was designed as a surface coating for artwork meant to be hung on the wall - it is considered scratch-resistant but not scratch-proof. You may want to add a polyurethane topcoat for an extra layer of protection against everyday wear and tear. ArtResin epoxy resin is approved as food safe by the FDA.
ArtResin epoxy resin is very durable once fully cured but as it was designed as a surface coating for artwork meant to be hung on the wall, it is considered scratch-resistant, not scratch-proof. A polyurethane sealant will help to protect your floor against inevitable wear and tear. It should be noted that ArtResin epoxy resin may be slippery when wet as it is waterproof.
Yes, ArtResin epoxy resin will work for relatively small casting projects such as pen blanks.
Yes. ArtResin epoxy resin is very durable and waterproof. Once cured, the resin is inert and therefore does not pose a threat to aquatic life. Although it can be indented with a fingernail in the first few days after curing, it is not typically able to be indented after the first 72 hour window. ArtResin epoxy resin has been shown in third party lab tests to outperform other epoxy resins in terms of non-yellowing longevity, resulting in a realistic-looking lure that will last.
Yes, you can resin over a guitar. Work in multiple thin layers to avoid dripping. You may want to try hanging the guitar from a wire so that the drips gather at the bottom where you will drill in the strap peg.
ArtResin epoxy resin is much thicker than varnish. ArtResin is poured on like clear honey and spread out, whereas varnish is typically painted or rolled on.
ArtResin's cure time is 24 hours until dry to the touch and 72 hours for a full cure. Varnish has a much quicker dry time.
ArtResin epoxy resin protects against the damaging effects of UV light, whereas varnishes typically do not.
ArtResin epoxy resin is a two part mixture, whereas Mod Podge is one part. ArtResin epoxy resin is poured on like clear honey and spread out, whereas Mod Podge is typically painted on with a brush in several coats. ArtResin epoxy resin is thicker and typically glossier than Mod Podge. Both act as sealants. ArtResin epoxy resin is protected against the aging (i.e. yellowing) effects of the sun by UV and HALS stabilization additives.
Wooden panels are best to use with ArtResin epoxy resin because they are sturdy. With large pieces, stretched canvas can sag in the middle under the weight of the resin.
Check out ourWood Panels, made especially for ArtResin!
ArtResin epoxy resin does not adhere well to disposable plastic paint tarps, plastic sandwich/grocery bags, silicone molds, and the non-sticky side of shiny tape. Artists can use these properties to their advantage when creating their pieces (e.g. jewelry made from resin poured in silicone molds).
Yes, ArtResin epoxy resin can be painted on once it's dry. Some artists mix resin with pigment or dye and use it like paint on top of a first cured layer of resin. You may want to check out one of our Feature Artists, Bruce Riley, who works this way.
ArtResin epoxy resin is very firm and hard once cured and is heat resistant and scratch resistant.
No, shrinkage will not occur with ArtResin epoxy resin. Shrinkage only occurs in products that have solvents, cheap fillers or non-reactive diluents included, which ArtResin epoxy resin does not.
No, cracking does not typically occur. ArtResin epoxy resin is very hard and durable once cured. It has been formulated with a bit of flexibility to it to prevent cracking and brittleness.
Yes, ArtResin epoxy resin is a permanent application that seals in whatever it is poured overtop of and protects the work underneath from water.
If ArtResin epoxy resin freezes in its liquid state, it should be moved to a warmer place and will return to normal functioning once it reaches room temperature.
Once it has cured, however, you want to avoid letting it freeze. This is due to the expansion and contraction that can happen to the substrate, which adds stress to the resin coat and can cause it to crack.
ArtResin epoxy resin contains advanced UV and Hindered Amine Light Stabilizers to protect it from degradation (i.e. yellowing) caused by UV light, however exposing it deliberately to UV light is still not recommended to be safe.
In most cases you don't need to use a sealant before applying ArtResin; however, there are some situations when sealing first makes sense: sealing over paper which may otherwise absorb the resin, sealing over loose materials that may float away in the resin, and sealing over natural objects that may off-gas, such as wood. Use a brush-on or a spray sealant that dries clear and is appropriate for your particular artwork. If in doubt, it never hurts to use a sealant first, but we always recommend doing a test on a scrap piece before you resin your masterpiece.
>Usually magazine clippings will typically hold true to their colors—it depends on the quality of ink and paper they're printed on. It helps to paint the surface underneath white, then resin as usual overtop. Clippings should be sealed first before resining. Some magazines pages can become translucent and show the images on the opposite side when resin is applied.
There are lots of different types and qualities of glue available - choose one that dries clear and that doesn't contain much water so it doesn't ripple the paper the paper you're using. A spray adhesive and a glue stick work very well. To mount your paper evenly and securely, apply the glue of your choice over the entire back of your paper. Starting with the edge closest to you, line the paper up evenly with the edge of the substrate and roll it back slowly, making sure no air pockets are trapped underneath. Next, take a clean piece of paper and a brayer and roll evenly on top of your piece making sure any air pockets are out the piece is adhered securely. Allow enough time for the glue to dry thoroughly before you apply ArtResin over top.
Yes you can use a paint roller to spread ArtResin epoxy resin, however the roller will be unusable afterward. An air gun is not recommended for use with resin because it will clog the passageway as it cures. The easiest way to apply ArtResin epoxy is by dragging the resin across the surface with an ArtResin spreader.
1. Cut masonite board (MDF board) to the dimensions you want
2. Measure length of masonite and cut wooden edges to match that length. For small pieces, use 2 x 1″ wood. For larger pieces, use 2 x 2″ wood so it's stronger.
3. Use wood glue/corrugated nails to attach the edges to the board.
4. OPTIONAL: You can also use flat 'L' brackets to screw into the back to make the corners stay tight. If the piece is large, consider adding a diagonal cross-piece of wood from corner to corner for extra support.
5. Sand corner outer edges. Fill in gaps with wood filler putty. Let dry and sand again.
6. To prime the wood, use gesso from an art store or white ceiling paint from the hardware store
Check out our Wood Panels, made especially for ArtResin!
ArtResin epoxy resin has no fumes or VOCs, however it makes sense to use it in a ventilated area. It should be kept and used at room temperature in an environment that is not too humid, otherwise surface film and other imperfections can occur in your resin as it cures.
Measure equally and accurately by volume, not weight. Adding too much of either the resin or the hardener will alter the chemical reaction and your resin will not cure properly.
Stir your equally measured amounts of resin and hardener together for at least 3 minutes. Not stirring properly will result in a sticky resin that will never cure.
Scrape the bottom and sides of your mixing vessel as you stir to ensure the entire mixture catalyzes and that there is no remaining unmixed resin or hardener stuck to the sides that may prevent a proper cure.
If bubbles appear, don’t worry—you can take care of them after pouring with an Artist's Torch.
When you pour the resin out of the mixing vessel, avoid scraping the sides in case there is any unmixed resin or hardener stuck to the sides - if this gets mixed into your catalyzed resin, you may end up with soft sticky spots in your cured resin
Yes, you can resin over a guitar. Work in multiple thin layers to avoid dripping. You may want to try hanging the guitar from a wire so that the drips gather at the bottom where you will drill in the strap peg.
Once you mixed your resin and hardener for 3 minutes, you'll have approximately 40 minutes of working time to pour and spread your ArtResin before it starts to cure and gets too thick to work with.
If you've warmed your resin in a water bath, the working time will be reduced by about 10-15 minutes, so time yourself accordingly.
If you want to coat the entire piece, start by pouring in the centre of your work. To spread, use a flat semi-strong object (i.e. something that can stand up to the density and weight of the resin). You can also use a disposable foam brush if you only want to embellish specific areas of your piece.
Typically you will have to dispose of your spreading tool, unless you purchase reusable epoxy resin spreaders which can be used over and over again. Our reusable spreaders have different sized teeth along each size so you can drag the spreader across the surface of the artwork and in so doing, you will spread the ArtResin epoxy resin evenly and efficiently.
You can resin the sides with a disposable foam brush or your gloved hand, or just let the resin dome neatly on top - doming means that you simply nudge the resin just to the edge of your piece without going over ... ArtResin's thick texture allows it to sit where you want it to!
Keep in mind that ArtResin will naturally self-level to a thickness of approximately 1/8".
Make sure the surface is dry and dust free. Check that the piece is level. You will want to set up a drop cloth underneath your work area. Prop your piece up on support blocks so you can resin the sides easily. You may also wish to tape off the underside of your piece to protect it from potential drips.
It's a good idea to have your piece raised off the ground on support blocks (e.g. empty plastic containers) so you can allow the resin to spill down the edges without pooling at the base, which would cause the resin to adhere your piece to the table top.
Since ArtResin doesn't stick to plastic, we like to use plastic support stands such as lego blocks, plastic shot glasses or painter's pyramids. If you end up with any drips on your support blocks, you can peel off the cured resin right off the blocks and use them again and again.
Yes, ArtResin epoxy resin is self-leveling. This means you can leave it alone and it will spread itself out evenly, so long as you have a level surface. Its natural thickness is about 1/8". You will likely want to spread it around with a brush or a reusable spreader to guide the resin into place.
The working time of ArtResin epoxy resin ( also called the pot life or open time ) is about 45 minutes. This is how long you have to work with the resin before curing sets in and it becomes too stiff to manipulate. You're best to apply the resin as soon as it has been thoroughly mixed for 3 minutes.
TIP: the working time can be affected by heat: if you've put the resin in a warm water bath or if you're working in a warm environment, the working time will be decreased by about 10-15 minutes. The cure time may also be decreased.
Cure time refers to the amount of time it takes for the resin mixture to totally finish its chemical reaction and become its hardest state. The ArtResin epoxy resin cure time is 24 hours (hard cure), however you can touch the surface after about 8 hours without it feeling sticky. It reaches its full cure at 72 hours.
ArtResin epoxy resin is formulated to give a high gloss finish, however it can be wet sanded down with a series of fine grit sandpaper and then a matte medium ( such as a non-toxic wax ) can be applied and polished overtop.
Epoxy resin dries ( cures ) faster with more heat. You can increase the room temperature to 75-85ºF / 24-30ºC or use heat lamps to encourage a quicker cure ( ensure the temperature stays stable for the first 24 hrs. ) Adding more hardener to the mixture will not work.
ArtResin epoxy resin can be thinned by heating it up, thus altering its viscosity. This will cause it to cure faster. You can heat it up by placing it near a heater or in a hot water bath, so long as it's in a glass container. Plastics tend to breathe a bit which puts the resin at risk for getting water in it, causing cloudiness. Do not attempt to use solvents to thin.
The most efficient way to remove bubbles from epoxy resin is with a torch. So whether you use a butane Artist's Torch or a propane torch, the flame from the torch heats the resin surface up instantly, thinning it out and allowing bubbles to escape very easily.
Some additional tips to help prevent bubbles are to seal your work ( especially in the case of wood or paper that might off-gas trapped air ), ensure your resin is room temperature or warmer, stir slowly rather than whipping your resin, pour slowly, and make sure you pour in 1/8" layers to allow the bubbles to escape to the surface.
Edges can be dealt with in different ways. Some artists like to mask off the edges entirely and aim to keep the ArtResin epoxy resin sitting on top of the piece, domed. Other artists only mask off the underside of the piece and allow the resin to drip over the sides, then spread it with a gloved hand. There are art panels available with a small ridge around the perimeter that creates a border for the resin and holds it all in neatly (as seen in this video: Using ArtResin Epoxy Resin on an Instagram Photo)
The best way to deal with drips is to prevent them from happening in the first place. Use painter's tape to mask off your edges to collect drips as they're forming - by the 24hr mark you can remove the tape and the drips right along with it. You can also smooth away drips while they're still wet with a foam brush or your gloved hand. If you have cured drips on your artwork, you can remove them with an electric sander.
Epoxy resin will not stick to plastic materials such as acetate, plexiglass and silicone. Another way to create a dam is to use a bead of silicone from a tube and applicator gun.
Put a protective covering over your resined piece (e.g. a big cardboard box). It helps to have the covering made prior to starting to resin so it's available as soon as you finish. If you are working in a garage, wet the garage floor to keep the dust down.
The key to photographing a high gloss finish like ArtResin is to light it without causing glare or hotspots. Hang your artwork up on a wall, position your camera on a tripod so that the lens is straight on and centred in the middle of your artwork and at a parallel angle. Control the lighting in the room by closing blinds and turning off room lights. Two copy lights set up at a 45 degree angle on either side of your artwork will create an even wash of light without creating reflections. Adjust the placement of the lights as necessary until you get a well lit shot without glare. Adjust your camera's aperture and white balance settings until you find a representation of your artwork that looks true to life. Make adjustments, take a few test shots and when you're happy with what you see, you're ready to shoot! If you know how, you can also adjust the light and color levels in Photoshop.
You can wait until the first coat of resin reaches a gel-like state, after about 3-5 hours, so that when you pour the second layer, it sits on top of the first layer. The two layers will bond together. On the other hand, if you wait until the first layer is dry to the touch, after about 24 hrs, scuff up the surface with 80 grit sandpaper before applying the second coat. This will provide some tooth for best adhesion.
Mix for at least 3 minutes, and then mix a bit more just to be sure! Remember to scrape the sides and bottom of the container as you stir to ensure everything is thoroughly combined. Improperly mixed resin will not be able to catalyze and will not cure properly. Don't scrape when you pour though - if there's going to be any unmixed resin or hardener, it will be on the sides and bottom and if it gets scraped out onto your artwork, it could cause soft, sticky spots in your resin.
Use disposable gloves, line your work surface with a vinyl shower curtain and have drop sheets on the ground to keep clean up simple. Do not pour leftover epoxy resin down the drain! Instead, wipe out all containers and wipe down reusable plastic tools with paper towel. Wipe down once more with rubbing alcohol or acetone to remove any residue. Next, wash with hot soapy water if desired. Or, simply allow any remaining residue to simply cure right on plastic tools and peel it off the next day once it has dried.
Keeping ArtResin epoxy resin pieces clean is very simple: just treat it like glass. Use a gentle glass cleaner and a soft cloth and polish as you would glass.
ArtResin epoxy resin has the viscosity of honey, so you can brush it on with a disposable foam brush. Repeat until everything is covered to your desired thickness. You may need to work in layers. If you are resining a cube, you can work in stages by coating one face of the cube at a time (i.e. resining the top flat panel of the cube, waiting for it to cure, then flipping the cube around so that a new face becomes the top flat panel, ready to be resined).
ArtResin was designed as a surface coating for artwork and formulated to be poured in thin applications. It naturally self-levels to 1/8". You can apply ArtResin as thick as you want, as long as you pour in multiple 1/8" coats.
You have two choices when pouring multiple layers: the first is to pour your initial layer, torch out the bubbles, cover and wait 3-5 hours until the ArtResin reaches a jelly like stage. At this point, you can pour on the next 1/8" layer, torch out bubbles, cover, wait 3-5 hrs and repeat until you reach the height you desire. This method is especially handy when pouring into a mold or a dam.
The second option is to allow the first layer to fully dry, then give the piece an overall light sanding and pour on the next 1/8" layer. Torch out bubbles, cover and let this layer dry. Repeat these steps as many times as you'd like.
Keep in mind that our recommendation of a 72hr cure time is based on a 1/8" layer. The thicker your layers are, the longer the cure time will be. It could take up to 10 days for a full cure, depending on how many layers you've poured.
Yes, a textured surface not only looks great but can cover up imperfections in your piece.
If your work is textured to begin with, apply ArtResin with a foam brush, in and out of the areas of relief, to provide an even layer of resin.
If you have a flat surface, you can create texture in the resin by using a ragging technique with a gloved hand or a rag to create a perfectly imperfect finish.
You can also apply two coats of resin to achieve a textured surface. Apply the first coat as usual and use a rag to apply the second one.
Yes, you can resin walls. Be aware that ArtResin has the consistency of honey, so will travel down the wall with gravity before it cures. Keep in mind the 45 minute working time before starting any large project.
Yes, if you use caution. Wear a respirator to avoid breathing in drilled cured resin particles. Start with a small hole first, drilled with a tiny drill bit. Work your way up from there to avoid the risk of the resin cracking. Do not drill close to the edge.
Work in multiple coats, painting/collaging/embedding objects as you so desire between the coats. Depending on how thick you do your coats, this could have an effect much like a shadow box.
Create cells and lacing in flow art by pouring different colors of resin alongside one another. While the piece is still wet, use a heat gun or hair dryer to gently push the resin around to create cells, lacing and other cool effects.
>Resin each side separately, allowing the first side to fully cure before moving onto the second side. Then use a hand sander on the edges and smooth them out. Brush on thin coats of resin over the edges.
Usually it is important to make sure the piece you're resining is level, but in the case of a curved surface, simply brush on multiple thin layers of ArtResin epoxy resin with a foam brush or apply with gloved hands.
ArtResin is self-leveling, so it will spread itself out to approximately 1/8" without anyone touching it. Most people, however, use a flat object to spread ArtResin exactly where you want it to go ( our reusable spreaders are the perfect thing to spread ArtResin evenly and efficiently! ) You'll have about 45 minutes to spread ArtResin before it starts to cure and gets too thick to work with.
You can also use a disposable foam brush if you only want to apply the resin to specific areas of your piece: this technique is known as Selective Embellishment and you can learn more about it in our blog How Can I Selectively Embellish My Artwork With Epoxy Resin?
Yes, epoxy resin can be used as a glue. In fact, it may be the strongest glue you will ever use! Mix and stir as usual, and apply as necessary with a brush or foam brush.
Yes, if your ArtResin is colder than room temperature, we recommend using a water bath to warm your resin because epoxy resin is generally easier to work with and has far less bubbles when it's warm. Immersing the tightly capped bottles in a warm ( not boiling ) water bath for 10-15 minutes will help to mitigate this issue. Be advised that warming will decrease the 45 minute working time by about 10 minutes so time yourself accordingly. Be cautious not to get any water into the mixture - even a single drop can cause your resin to cure cloudy.
If you are pouring a large quantity of ArtResin epoxy resin on a big canvas, there is a risk of the weight of the resin causing the canvas material to sag in the center. To avoid this, first brush on a very thin preliminary coat of resin. This first coat will make the surface very stiff. After you have this hard base, apply a second coat to get the thickness you want. You can also support the canvas by custom cutting a piece of MDF board or cardboard and fitting it in the back of the piece, under the crossbar of the stretcher. Alternatively, you may want to work on wooden panels which will not pose the same risk of sagging.
Bubbles can continue to form for up to 60 minutes after the curing process has begun. The best way to get rid of them is to run an Artist's Torch over the surface of your resin. You can also blow on the surface or pop the bubbles with a toothpick, but the most efficient and effective method by far is to use the Artist's Torch.
Many bubbles do pop on their own. If you are looking for a flawless, glass-like surface however, you will want to use a torch (e.g. our Artist's Torch) over the surface, as this is the best way to eradicate all bubbles.
Unfortunately, we don't recommend spot fixing for the simple reason that it's very difficult to sand out a small area where there might be an issue, such as a bubble, hair, or even where a bit of dust landed in your wet resin. It's almost impossible to get a seamless finish by pouring a fresh patch of resin on top of the original resin coat.
Instead, we recommend that you sand down the entire surface and pour another perfectly measured, well mixed coat of ArtResin over the entire piece for an even, flawless finish!
If you notice soft, sticky areas in your resin application that do not seem to be curing properly, this always means that the chemical reaction was not able to happen properly—either through unequal measuring or non-thorough mixing. You will have to scrape off any wet material as best you can, sand down any dried, cured resin, and pour another coat over the entire thing. Your artwork underneath will not be disturbed. Make sure you scrape away all non-cured material, otherwise the stickiness could eventually leak out from under the new resin coat. Resin that remains sticky days after being poured will stay sticky indefinitely until measures are taken to fix the situation.
Sometimes when resin is left to cure in cold conditions, the surface can develop a greasy film from the amines in the hardener. This film rapidly clogs sandpaper. The best thing to do if you detect this greasiness is wash it with warm water mixed with a small amount of dishwashing detergent. The amines are water soluble and will wash away easily.
While it is extremely important to stir the resin and hardener thoroughly for 3 minutes or ArtResin may not cure properly, you really can't overstir. Just remember that you have a 45 minute window in which to pour before the resin will start to cure and become to thick to work with. So when you stir, make sure you go slowly and methodically, and that you scrape the bottom and sides as you go. Try not to whip the resin because that will just induce more bubbles than you need. If you detect bubbles in the ArtResin epoxy resin after stirring, you can simply torch them out with our Artist's Torch.
Although torching is the number one way to eliminate bubbles from your ArtResin epoxy resin surface, you must be careful not to over-torch. Move your Artist's Torch across the surface smoothly and without stopping, much like you would use an iron over clothing.
Simply apply another layer of ArtResin epoxy resin overtop once the first layer has cured. Remember to keep your piece perfectly level to avoid having the same thing happen twice. Make sure to sand in between the layers so they adhere to each other properly. The second coat will go over the first and be perfectly clear.
Depending on the shape and slope of your piece, a sander or hand planer would work to pare down cured resin. A second coat would bring back the gloss and hide the white rough surface left by the planer or sander. You could also try simply applying a second coat from the outset to level a slanted surface.
Be sure to do all your spreading well within the pot life span (usually 40-50 minutes). If you try to spread ArtResin epoxy resin after it has already begun to cure, it could dry leaving textural lines in it. Typically the pot life span is plenty of time to get everything spread.
How Can I Avoid Getting Dimples In My Epoxy Resin Surface? Dimples can occur when the resin cures in cooler temperatures, or if there is a temperature dip in the first 24 hours of a cure. Always aim for a stable room temperature of between 72-77F or 23-25C when curing your artwork. Dimples can also result from surface contaminants ( such as dust particles ) landing in your wet resin. Ensure your resin room is as free of dust as possible and always use a dustcover to protect your work while it cures. Dimples can also result from overtorching. Make sure you only lightly pass the torch two or three times over the resined surface, always keeping it moving, and don't hold it too closely or in one place for too long.
Oh Sh*t: Milky Resin What Is The Perfect Temperature For Working With Epoxy Resin? ArtResin's ideal working temperature is between 72-77F or 23-25C. Resin colder than this is thick, clumpy, hard to work with and looks milky because it's full of thousands of microbubbles (which you'll never be able to torch out.) Carefully warming up the unopened resin/hardener bottles in a warm water bath for about 10 minutes can greatly mitigate this issue. Be aware that warming your resin in a waterbath cuts down your working time by about 10-15 minutes, so time yourself accordingly. Dry your bottles thoroughly after removing them from the waterbath - even a single drop of water into the mixture can cause it to turn cloudy and prevent it from curing properly.
Why Does My Epoxy Resin Mixture Feel Hot? Once you combine the resin and the hardener together, a chemical reaction takes place to begin the curing process. Heat is produced during this chemical reaction and is completely normal. Heat output is greater with greater quantities of the resin mixture. ArtResin epoxy resin is formulated to protect against yellowing caused by thermal energy (heat).
Oh Sh*t: Voids/Divots/Bare spots Resin can be repelled by oily wet surfaces. To fix a bare area, sand the entire surface down with 80 grit sandpaper and pour another well-measured, well-mixed coat of ArtResin epoxy resin
How Can I Increase The Value Of My Artwork? Artwork coated in ArtResin epoxy resin has a richer, more dramatic look and can typically fetch more in sales. It has a clean professional finish so people don't need to frame the artwork once they've purchased from you: the client will spend more on the art from the artist but will save money in the long run because they don't have to pay for framing.
A torch is your best bet for a perfect finish. Once you have poured your ArtResin epoxy resin and it is spread out evenly, run a small Artist's Torch over the surface at a distance of a few inches. You will see the bubbles rise to the surface and burn away any dust particles or hairs.
What's The Best Work Surface When Using Epoxy Resin? Hands down, the best material to line your work surface with is one that's water resistant, such as plastic. You don't need to spend a lot of money on a surface covering, but you do need to make sure you choose something non-absorbent in order to protect your table top. Some good examples of material to line your work surface with include a vinyl shower curtain, a silicone mat or drawer liner, a plastic drop sheet, baker's parchment paper or even a garbage bag that has been cut and spread out. A plastic lined work surface also allows for easy clean up: if any drips fall while you're resining, simply leave them be and let them cure. The next day, once they've dried, they can be peeled away and your liner can be used again and again and again.
How to Mount a Print to a Wooden Panel Coating A Mounted Photo If you are resining over a collage, watercolor paper or mixed media with white/light coloured paper, it is recommended that you mount the paper on a white surface. Depending on the paper you are using, your paper could turn slightly translucent under the resin, so if the surface underneath is white then your images will retain their true colors. It is always recommended that you try the resin out over your paper of choice first on a test surface.
As with most things, practice makes perfect. Your second project will inevitably be better than your first. The third resin job will be even better again! Keep in mind that you may not get everything perfect on your first try and that the best way to learn is to make mistakes so you can improve! Experimenting is both necessary and part of the fun of the creative process.
How Can I Safely Package My Resin Art Pieces? First and foremost, ensure your resined artwork has fully cured for at least 72 hours before packing or transporting your art. Although it may seem cured after 24 hours, it has not had a chance to cure all the way through and could be prone to indenting. The best material to use against the surface of your ArtResin epoxy resin piece is glassine paper. Glassine paper is smooth, glossy, acid-free and will protect the resined surface without scratching or sticking. Once your piece is protected with glassine, you can pad it with poly foam to provide cushioning. You can further pad your piece with fabric and cardboard or foam core for extra protection.
If you choose to use bubble wrap, DO NOT use it directly on your artwork as a first layer - use it as exterior padding only. Always make sure the flat side is facing in and the bubble side is facing out, otherwise there is a chance the bubbles may leave an impression.
How To Avoid Reflections When Photographing Resin Art Great shots of your artwork is an important marketing tool for any artist. While a few reflections are an advantage to show off ArtResin's shine, its high gloss finish can sometimes cause challenging reflections and hotspots. With a few simple and effective techniques for proper lighting and camera positioning, you can capture shots of your artwork like a pro:
Work in a controlled environment: taking a shot with both studio lights and ambient lighting ( daylight or from lamps/ceiling lights ) can cause glare and uneven lighting. Close curtains and blinds and adjust room lights as necessary in order to control all the light hitting your piece. Set up your lighting: to get an equal, even wash of light, set up two identical lights on either side of your artwork at 45 degree angles. Use the brightest lights you can and ensure both lights are the same in order to provide even amounts and even colour. Never use your camera's flash or light your work from the same angle as the camera or else you'll end up with a hot spots in your work.
Set up your artwork: Whether you hang your artwork, lean it on a wall, or lay it on the floor, it's important that the camera is positioned at a perfectly parallel angle and that the lens is centred to the middle to avoid making your piece look distorted. Using a tripod locks the camera in and offers the most control. Adjust your lights and your artwork for reflections: examine the way your artwork looks through the lens, identifying any unwanted sources of light and finding a way to minimize them. You may need to adjust the positioning of your lights or adjust your artwork Take a few test shots: once you're happy with what you see, you're ready to shoot!
How Can I Be Sure That ArtResin Won't Ruin My Artwork? What Are The Benefits Of ArtResin? If you're new to ArtResin epoxy resin, it's best to test it out on a non-masterpiece first. It's very important to measure carefully and mix thoroughly so that the resin and hardener parts have the chance to react properly. So long as you pay close attention to this part of the process, you should be successful. Unlike other resins, ArtResin epoxy resin is specifically formulated for creative applications, and is chemically engineered to offer the best non-yellowing protection on the market. You may want to view our customer video reviews to see what others are saying about ArtResin epoxy resin and to get inspired.
How Can I Hang Heavy Resin Art? Epoxy resin is heavy, so if your painting is large or if you're using a lot of epoxy resin, normal picture frame wire is not going to be strong enough to support your artwork. Instead, try hanging heavy artwork using aircraft cable, a thin, flexible but exceptionally strong steel cable found at hardware stores. Another highly effective method for hanging heavy artwork is to use two pieces of wood that have complimentary 45 degree angles cut into them. One block of wood is installed securely into the wall, and the other block of wood is installed onto the back of the painting. When that painting is hung, the 45 degree angles lock together, securing your artwork in place.
